Bay Trippin’: Getting your Dr. Jones Goonied
Birds perch on a rock off of Sculptured Beach in Point Reyes, Calif. (Photo by Annie Sciacca/The Inquirer 2010)
May 9, 2010
I had an “Indiana Jones”/ “Goonies” moment of excitement the first time I climbed through a hole in the top of a large outcropping and into a small sea cave that opens up to a small, secluded inlet on Sculptured Beach in Point Reyes National Seashore.
Another large outcropping, disconnected from the cliffs behind the beach, holds a larger cave with several small tide pools. The lower half of the cave is covered with iridescent sea urchin, starfish, and mineral deposits from water that drips off the ceiling. Where the cave opens to the sea, mussels cover the rocks.
On the other side, another secluded cove is sectioned off by a long point jetting into the water. The rocky headland, with its huge arch framing the view of the beach to the south, invites you to pass through.
Except for a few days a month, when the tide is low enough to simply stroll onto the next beach, one must be ready to run between sets of waves. Even then it’s likely you’ll get wet, which is enough to deter most hikers from going farther.
About half way down, a stream snakes its way into the ocean. At the end, another archway, this one with a smaller opening and entirely covered in mussels, is also passable when the tide is out.
Almost immediately a cave takes you inside a huge sink hole.
The most beautiful feature is a waterfall that gushes 20 feet down into a little pool on the beach below during the rainy season. It is one of only a few falls that do so in California.
From the ever-changing, constantly eroding cliffs that could have been the model for Gaudí’s “Sagrada Familia,” to sea caves that look like something out of “Pirates of the Caribbean,” there is so much unique geography in one place. The seclusion is unparalleled, in part because of its remote location, in part because it is a well-kept secret.
Be sure to check the tide tables before making this trip, this cannot be emphasized enough.
Some sections of the beach will be shut off completely during certain times of the month. More importantly, you can become cut off by the tide and trapped between the cliffs and the ocean. The frigid waters and strong currents are thought to have claimed the lives of two missing hikers earlier this year.
You will likely have Sculptured Beach to yourself on a weekday, although few make it that far, even on a weekend.
Now is a great time to go. Bright colorful wild flowers of all types are in bloom and young wildlife is abundant, including elk and bobcats. Last week I saw a dying seal, and years ago, I saw a beached whale.
I also saw oystercatchers, with their jet black feathers and long bright-red beaks, a brown pelican and flocks of 100 or so tiny sanderlings, moving almost in unison as they ran from the waves and then chased them back out.
For this day trip, I suggest taking the whole day, stop on your way home and have some local oysters.
Have fun, get lost.
Contact Christian Villanueva at [email protected]